19. Chapter 19
Chapter nineteen
I wake slowly, the gentle light seeping in behind the curtains alerting my body that it is, in fact morning. As soon as I register this, I have this anticipatory feeling. As if I’m waiting for something big. But it takes my sleepy brain a few moments to remember.
The email.
Jolting up, I grab for my phone on the bedside table, only to knock it onto the floor. Cursing my clumsiness, I reach down to pick it up, noting the silenced notifications telling me I have multiple unread emails. I click through, nervous-excited as I see that one is from my boss.
I scan her reply quickly, then look it over again to make sure I’ve read it correctly.
She said yes.
SHE SAID YES!
I let out an excited whoop before quickly covering my mouth, remembering that there are others in the building and that Greeks are not morning people.
Still, despite the early hour, I can’t keep the smile off my face. I don’t have to stress over what to do today. I don’t have to worry about missing out. I now have time to do it all.
Flopping back against my pillows, I stretch my arms out on either side of me and relish this new development. Soaking it in before I worry about the next steps. I think of how different this trip is from what I had expected. From changing my plans and changing islands to meeting and making new friends. My date with Niko. My newfound independence. So much has happened in so little time and I can’t wait to see what comes next.
But first, I need to get organized.
Most of my day is spent making new arrangements for my extended stay. I start with the flight, figuring that is the most important part. Unfortunately, it doesn’t let me change my ticket online, which means I end up getting put on hold listening to horrible elevator music for what seems like an eternity.
By the time a representative comes on, I’m bored out of my mind and eager to get this ticket change over and done with. Thankfully, it doesn’t take too long. With my credit card information handed over, the agent confirms my flight change and my email pings with the updated schedule. Flights are good to go.
My next task is to figure out where to stay. Thankfully, nothing has changed in terms of availability for this apartment since I checked last night, so I’m able to extend my stay for the extra five nights. After that, we’ll see how I feel. I can go back to Rhodes. Or maybe even go somewhere new. After all, this trip has taught me that advanced planning doesn’t always go as expected and sometimes it’s more fun to live in the moment. To leave space for changes and to go with the flow.
My new flights and accommodation in place, I follow up with messages to my friends and family members back home, letting them know I’ve extended my time in Greece and will be home later than expected. I follow the message by posting a handful of photos I’ve taken from Symi so far. Fishing boats bobbing in the bay, colourful houses stacked on the hill, a photo of the Elena, and even a shot of last night’s fancy cocktail. Hopefully, they will see them and think that everything is as beautiful as I do. Hopefully, they will understand that I’m just happy and still exploring, not having a mental breakdown on the other side of the world.
With everything taken care of, I head out to Gialos, treating myself to a gyro for lunch. Before the shops close for the midday break, I also make sure to grab a few basic groceries. After all, I’ll be here for a while now. My apartment has a mini fridge and there is a communal kitchen space on the main floor if I want to cook. I grab a loaf of fresh bread along with a cucumber, tomato, Greek yogurt, a little jar of local honey, some extra drinking water, and a small basket of bright red cherries which looked too good to leave behind, even if they were a little on the expensive side. It’s funny how in Santorini I stocked up on groceries because I was nervous to be on my own and a little homesick. Now here I am buying groceries because I’m not ready to leave and have settled in a little.
By the time everything is done, it’s late afternoon. Too late to bother with a beach but perfect timing for the Kali Strata. According to the notes in the blue binder on my desk, and feedback from the group on The Elena, the Kali Strata is a set of about five hundred steps that lead from Gialos, where I am now in the port, to Chorio, which is the upper part of the town. The endpoint is the Kastro, or the castle at the top. I don’t remember seeing a castle from the boat, which leads me to think it’s a castle in the loosest sense of the word. Similar to the one in Oia; a pile of ruins. However, I’m a sucker for a good view and since this trail is meant to be one of the best things to do on the island, I’m up for the adventure.
I trade my current shorts for a longer pair of bike shorts to reduce the chance of chub rub, tie my hair back into a ponytail and refill my water bottle for the journey. Stashing it in my bag, I head out to the streets to find the start of the trail to the Kali Strata.
After ten minutes of trying to find the trail, I had to give up and ask for help. Turns out that despite this being a tiny town, it actually isn’t as easy to find as you would think. Unless you can read Greek. In which case it’s written on a wall in the Greek alphabet. But since I don’t read Greek, I have to ask a local woman in a small shop who points me in the right direction.
At first, I was worried about these five hundred stairs. After all, five hundred is a pretty daunting number. Especially in the heat and especially when I read online that it can take a couple of hours. Plus I had no idea what these stairs were like. Were they tall or short? In good condition or crumbling? Narrow or wide? I’ve seen photos of some pretty crazy staircases that people like to hike and climb around the world but, thankfully, these fall into a very normal category.
Upon arriving at the bottom of the trail, I am pleasantly surprised by what I find. For the most part, the stairs are quite wide and in relatively good condition. They are also very short and spread in batches of eight to twelve before a flat paved area, then another set of stairs, making it easy to find a spot to take a break.
Feeling confident that I won’t die attempting to climb these stairs, I hitch my bag over my shoulder and start up the path. Only to stop a moment later at the top of the first set to take a photo of a small yellow house with periwinkle doors and windows. The paint is heavily chipped and the windows are covered over with intricately swirled wrought iron bars, but it still catches my eye.
Halfway up the next set of stairs I stop again, admiring the view down a tiny alleyway to my left. The view leads back down to the water, and the walls of the buildings on either side act like a frame for the little sail boat bobbing in the bay. I snap a couple of photos.
By my third photo stop, I realize why everyone says this trail can take up to two hours. It’s not that the climb itself is difficult. No, the problem is that this so-called hike is just way too pretty. Too picturesque. Too photogenic. And the people who climb it, like me, continually stop to take photos.
However, while the hike isn’t necessarily hard, it is very hot and while I’m by no means rushing, I can still feel the sweat beading along my hairline just from being exposed to the strong sun. If it’s this warm this late in the day, I can’t imagine doing this climb during peak daytime hours.
About halfway up, I pause at a cute little church where I take some more photos and chug some water. Here, the stairs veer steeply behind the church, getting a little narrower. That being said, it’s not exactly like there’s a lot of foot traffic here. Aside from a couple of people looking out their windows as I pass, I haven’t seen anyone else. I seem to have the Kali Strata completely to myself.
Tucking my water bottle away, I continue up the gradual incline of stairs, weaving my way through more cute colourful houses, past beautiful view points down to the bay below, and higher up the hill towards the end point: kastro.
As expected, the kastro is a castle in only the loosest sense of the word. Perhaps at one time, it was a towering castle or powerful fortress, but today it’s a ruin. A very grown-over ruin. Carefully I pick my way across the tall grass full of scattered rocks that might have at one time been walls.
Rounding the corner, I make my way to the front of the kastro, ready for this epic viewpoint from the top, only to be slightly disappointed.
Is the view pretty? Of course. Being this high means I have a good vantage point of everything in front of me. But the fortress is a little pushed back, which means the hill hides a lot of the village below. The viewpoint, while nice, is more of the entrance to the bay than of the actual bay itself. Not quite the horseshoe-shaped panorama of Gialos that I was hoping for. Still, I spend some time appreciating the view and taking too many photos. After all, I did climb five hundred stairs to get here.
Photos taken, I figure it’s time to head back down. I reach for my water bottle to take a swig only to remember I finished it when I arrived at the top.
“Crap,” I mutter to myself.
I may have reached the top but the sun is still out and I do need to walk all the way back. Plus, I’m thirsty right now. Navigating my way past the rocks, I head in the direction I came, down towards the buildings again. I left Gialos but Symi’s main town has two parts and the upper part is Chorio. I know that there are restaurants and shops up here too, I just need to find one.
I clomp my way down a few steps before I see an alleyway off to my right. I take it, and after a couple of turns I’m in a busier and slightly livelier area. Pausing, I glance around me looking for a shop where I can purchase a bottle of water. Instead, I spot a familiar face sitting at a taverna across the way.
“Arthur!”
Startled, Arthur looks around before spotting me. He waves me over and after checking for traffic, which is more out of habit rather than necessity here, I make my way across the street.
“Calla! I’m so happy to see you, please sit.”
His blue eyes twinkle behind his glasses as I pull out the chair beside him. He’s drinking a beer, and I notice he’s not the only one. A second bottle sits in a slightly damp puddle of condensation across from him, although right now the chair is empty.
Arthur’s mystery companion is quickly forgotten though as I catch the eye of an older waitress and request a large bottle of still water. She bustles off to the kitchen, returning a moment later with the bottle and a glass.
“Efcharistó!” I thank her as she turns away. Ignoring the glass, I untwist the cap and dump some of the cold and refreshing water down my throat. Better.
“So, I’m going to hazard a guess that you just climbed the Kali Strata?” Arthur smiles.
I gulp down my water.
“Yes! And I loved it but I think I still might have gone a little too early in the day? It’s hot out there.”
Arthur chuckles as he reaches for his beer. “Yes, most people come up around now to be there in time for the sunset. As you said, the sun can be quite warm. But it’s a magnificent climb isn’t it?”
I’m about to answer when the scrape of a chair on the road announces that Arthur’s companion has re-appeared.
“Sorry about that, Arthur.”
Arthur’s companion turns out to be Dimitri. But today he’s traded his swim shorts and t-shirt from yesterday for dark wash jeans and a white long sleeve that, while not tight, hugs his shoulders and biceps very nicely. He’s not dressed up but I can’t help but feel a little gross sitting next to him and Arthur in my bike shorts and oversized t-shirt, both of which are damp with sweat. I watch as he tucks his phone into his pocket before sitting, not realizing I’m staring until he catches my eye. Quickly, I look away and focus my attention on my water bottle.
“Not a worry, Dimitri. I was barely alone for a minute before Calla came along. She’s just come from the kastro after climbing the Kali Strata and was telling me about her experience.”
Dimitri’s dark, gold-flecked eyes lock on mine, waiting to hear what I have to say. I tuck my hair behind my ear, swallowing hard as I look away from his intense gaze.
“Well, it’s beautiful. I loved the climb up but…” I glance between Arthur and Dimitri, now feeling silly for the question I wanted to ask. “Well, the kastro isn’t really much of a castle, is it?”
Arthur chuckles and even Dimitri’s lips twitch in amusement.
“Not anymore, sadly. Just the ruins.” Arthur leans forward on his elbows, pushing his glasses up his nose. “But have you heard the story of how it was destroyed?”
“Um no?”
“Dimitri, you are the local, you tell her.”
Dimitri dips his head in acknowledgement, taking a sip of his beer before he starts.
“During World War II, the Germans were here on the island. They destroyed much of Gialos and Chorio and their final act upon leaving was to blow up the kastro.”
I blink a couple of times, waiting for more, but that seems to be it.
“My boy,” Arthur comments dryly, “you need to learn how to tell a story. You left out the best part.”
He turns in his seat to face me.
“Like Dimitri said, the Germans bombed much of this part of the island. They had conquered Symi but upon leaving, blew up the castle as a final act of destruction. However, legend says that the same group of German soldiers who blew up the castle tried to escape by submarine. Not long after leaving the island, they were torpedoed by the Allies. As the story goes, only one woman was killed in the bombing of the castle. The people had advance warning of what was to happen. But none of the German soldiers responsible for the crime survived the submarine explosion.”
The story is darker than I expected, but reflects a kind of poetic justice.
“Is that true?” I look over to Dimitri.
He shrugs noncommittally. “We have many legends on the island. This is a popular one. Is it true? I don’t know, I wasn’t there.” He pauses a moment, eyes down as he plays with the label on his beer bottle. “It’s not so nice, but part of me likes to think that it’s true. That they were punished for destroying part of my home.”
“Karma’s a bitch,” I tease, which coaxes a small smile from Dimitri.
“Yes. Yes, it is.”
“The view is lovely though,” Arthur nods, “It’s too bad you leave tomorrow and don’t have more time though. I have always preferred the view from the windmills. It’s a little late to make it there now before sunset though…”
“Oh! I didn’t tell you!” I lean forward excitedly. “I’m not leaving yet. I’ve extended my stay in Greece.”
I feel Dimitri’s eyes on me but it’s Arthur who speaks.
“Splendid! We’ll have to do dinner again! I think Margaret is planning something this week. Please come.”
I tell him of course I will, then beg for more details about these windmills.
“Ah yes! The windmills. Lovely view from there. More of the town rather than just the bay itself. You must have seen them from the kastro though, over in this direction.” Arthur shuffles a little in his chair before pointing over the rooftops of the buildings nearby.
“Magnificent sunset spot but sadly I don’t think you’ll make it in time tonight. Too bad really, I expect the sunset tonight will be spectacular.” He frowns at the fading light. “Unless…Dimitri, you have your bike, don’t you? Why don’t you take her?”
“Oh no,” I stammer, feeling uncomfortable. I love chatting with Arthur but Dimitri is so quiet and serious and difficult to talk to. Plus, I don’t think he likes me. He seemed annoyed when I met him yesterday, that I had joined the group, and while I thought maybe we were past that after seeing the seals, I can’t help but notice that he’s barely even acknowledged me today. “I can go another time.”
“It’s fine.” Dimitri’s low voice cuts through my protests. “I’ll take you.”
“It’s ok, really,” I argue weakly. “I can just go another time.”
“If we leave now, we can make it. Arthur’s right, it will be a nice sunset tonight.”
He arches a brow at me and in turn, I look to Arthur. Hoping that he’ll save me and say another time would be better. But no luck.
“Yes, yes! Go quickly! It’s going to be lovely.”
“Ok,” I breathe. I dig through my bag and throw a couple of euros down on the table for my water. “You sure you’re ok if we leave you, Arthur?”
“Of course!” he huffs. “I may be an old man but I can take care of myself. Go. Enjoy. And I will see you later. I’m happy you are staying a little longer, Calla.”
“Me too,” I tell him.