Chapter 10
Reffen was across the water from Nyhavn, and while navigating the water bus for the first time made Milly slightly nervous, the idea that she’d discover another part of the city and find something delicious to eat kept her going.
She hadn’t been sure what to expect, but when she got there and walked the open track from the dock through the industrial warehouses, following the signs, there were moments where she definitely worried she’d gone in the wrong direction.
But when she got there, she couldn’t quite believe neither Theo nor Ada had taken her there before.
The once industrial site by the harbour had seemed a little gritty according to some of the architecture she’d seen when approaching, but turning a corner unveiled a vibrant, buzzing street food market.
The stark, revamped shipping containers and huts that could have looked cold and menacing were brightly coloured with vivid graffiti and adorned with fluorescent names.
Tables and chairs bursting with people filled every available space, and the sort of young, hipster cool customers that made Milly feel old, even though she was only in her late twenties, sat chatting and eating the delicious food.
Music came from each and every restaurant; different tunes and songs mixing with, and over, each other as she walked through.
Then, to her surprise, in the centre was a sandy area full of deck chairs for people to take their food and drink and sit and enjoy it in comfort.
From here she could see the canal and the rest of Copenhagen over the other side of the water.
Milly wandered around for a bit, deciding what to eat and drink, and found herself settled outside a stall for Reffen brewery, and the smells of the nearby vendors selling barbecue, curry, Kurdish street food, hot dogs and even bao buns were so appetising her stomach was virtually shouting at her to get up and order something.
Spices filled the air along with barbecued meat and the sugary smell of sweet treats from the gelato and waffle stall.
Grateful for her sunglasses in the strong summer sun, she looked around, soaking up the buzz of the place.
Theo must love it here, she thought. So why hadn’t he mentioned it to her?
And then she saw it and knew exactly why.
A poster declared that it was almost time for the Copenhagen Cooking Festival with details of how local vendors could take part.
She immediately grabbed her phone and began reading about it.
The festival lasted for ten days over the summer and wasn’t centred in one place. Instead vendors took part all over the city, and different areas set up smaller festival sites, so the whole of Copenhagen became a foodie centre.
Had he known that she’d want them to enter? It would be a great way of improving visibility for the café and showcasing Theo’s talents. She dialled Theo’s number.
‘Hej,’ he replied almost instantly.
‘Hello. When were you going to tell me about the Copenhagen Cooking Festival?’
‘I umm …’ The line went quiet.
‘Umm what?’ she asked, covering her other ear as the noise level rose.
‘Where are you?’ She could hear him moving around the café, probably wiping the sides down as he always did.
‘Reffen. But don’t change the subject.’
‘What are you doing there?’
‘Getting something to eat. The guy at the Happiness Museum recommended it to me.’
‘Oh right.’
She let the silence fall between them. Then to her surprise, he said, ‘Wait there and I’ll come and meet you.’
‘What about the café? And isn’t it too far?’
‘We’ve sold out of all the sandwiches and pastries I made today.’
‘Really?’ She couldn’t contain her happiness at that and smiled as she spoke. ‘That’s amazing.’
‘Isn’t it? It’s never happened before. But people are seeing the ridiculously bright chalkboard and actually bothering to walk all the way down the canal.’
‘That’s great.’
She’d posted the video of Theo kneading dough, and seeing a hot baker work was definitely bringing in views that she hoped would eventually convert into customers as well.
There was a pause, a moment of happy silence between them. ‘And Reffen isn’t that far, it’s only a few minutes to get across the water. You get used to going back and forth across the canal in Copenhagen. It’s like using the metro. I’m going to close early and come and find you. Don’t move.’
She had to admit, the journey over the water hadn’t taken long on the big yellow boat and it had been a calming, relaxed way of travelling, much better than buses and trains.
And Theo made a good point: if she was going to be in Copenhagen for the summer, she needed to think like a local and not like a tourist, but she still enjoyed the tourist buzz of doing new and unusual things.
Hopping on a water bus across a canal wasn’t something she did normally back home.
About half an hour later, he was there, striding towards her, without flour in his hair – she was pleased to note – and a smile on his face.
By now, Milly’s stomach was almost aching with hunger, which might have been an exaggeration but when surrounded by so many delicious smells, sitting there sipping a delicious beer had been pleasant but also torturous.
She’d decided to wait for Theo before eating, knowing he wouldn’t have had time at the café.
He slid onto the picnic bench beside her.
‘You look happy,’ she said, cradling her almost empty beer.
‘I am. I’ve never sold everything I’ve made before. And I know they were only small batches, but I’m still pleased.’
‘You should be. It’s great progress. And now we can make even more.’ She pointed to the cooking festival poster and his eyes followed.
‘No, no, no, no.’ He shook his head, all trace of happiness gone. ‘No.’
‘Why not?’
‘Because …’ He clenched his hand on the table. ‘For lots of reasons.’
‘Like what?’
‘I need a drink. Do you want another one?’
That was the second time he’d dodged that question, but she wasn’t going to give up.
She’d let him get a beer and relax. She looked at her almost empty glass.
She really needed to eat something soon, but one more wouldn’t hurt and though she wasn’t normally a beer drinker, the one from Reffen brewery had been especially delicious on a hot day. ‘Yes, please.’
He returned a moment later, placing a glass in front of her and sipping at his own.
For a second, he closed his eyes to enjoy the taste as the sun beat down on his face and Milly had another flash of the easy-going lifestyle everyone raved about here.
She’d been thinking about it all afternoon since leaving the Happiness Museum, but she hadn’t made any headway with her own tangled thoughts.
It was becoming clearer that what made her happy were the things she was doing here and not the day-to-day of her normal life back home, but as far as she could see there was no way to combine the two.
She might learn some principles of Danish living but how could she apply those to a job she hated and a life that didn’t make her feel good?
After all, hygge was all about feelings.
It would be like fitting a square peg into a round hole.
It just wouldn’t work. No matter how hard she tried to think it through, it still looked like the elements she’d be able to take home were the aesthetic ones, rather than the total way of life.
‘So,’ she said, determined not to dwell on her confusion. ‘Why can’t we enter the Copenhagen Cooking Festival? It’s the absolute perfect way to get the café more exposure so people know who you are and what you do. I don’t get why you’re being so weird about it.’
‘I’m not being weird about it,’ he replied, shuffling a little in his seat and then taking a drink of his beer.
‘Yes, you are. Definitely.’
‘I just don’t think we’re ready for that; that’s all. Maybe we could do it next year, but this year just seems too soon. It starts pretty soon.’
‘I won’t be here next year,’ she said, the words slipping out uncontrolled. At the same time, a dark cloud settled on her heart.
She really wouldn’t be, would she? And that was more than just a shame.
It actually made her feel quite sad. She liked Copenhagen; she liked the Danish culture.
She liked learning about hygge, though she was still trying to determine what exactly that meant in terms of her and her life, but she was getting closer the longer she stayed.
She liked the way Danish people looked after each other, celebrated community and wellbeing.
She liked the feel of the city, its friendly but modern vibe, and she loved being surrounded by water.
It wasn’t something she experienced back home in Milton Keynes.
‘No you won’t, will you?’ Sadness filled his expression too, his bright eyes dimming, and Milly’s heart tingled.
The atmosphere shifted between them as if unspoken words hung in the air.
They looked at each other for a moment, him eyeing her so intensely through the dark lenses of her glasses, it was like they were each searching for a sign.
Was he looking for the same as her? Encouragement to move a little closer, to say something a little riskier?
She wanted him to take her hand, to stroke her cheek, to lean forwards and kiss her, but he didn’t move, so neither did she.
Eventually, after what seemed like an age, he glanced away, grabbed his beer and took a long drag.
‘Anyway,’ he said, with a slight shake of his head as though he were clearing his thoughts. ‘I don’t want to enter this year.’
‘But why? I don’t get it. Look at these guys; they don’t have fancy restaurants, but I bet they’re entering because they produce unusual or super tasty food. Why wouldn’t you—’
‘Because I’m not ready, okay?’ His voice had risen slightly. Not enough to draw people’s attention or be heard over the music, but enough that she noticed and dipped her eyes. ‘The café isn’t ready. It’s too much too soon.’