On Harting Hill
On such a night, when Air has loosed
Its guardian grasp on blood and brain,
Old terrors then of god or ghost
Creep from their caves to life again;
from ‘Low Barometer’
ROBERT brIDGES
Friday, 27th October, 1961. That afternoon, I was late getting away.
A burst water main in Tolworth, and down to one lane in Kingston, meant the going was slow and the traffic was heavy.
It had been mild, but in the last few days the weather had turned unsettled.
There was a light drizzle and the road was slippery and wet. Leaves, fallen, on the pavements.
All the same, I was comfortable enough in my Morris Minor, the heating rattling on full, rime on the inside of the windscreen as I crept forward in a stream of cars leaving London by the old Portsmouth Road.
I half listened to the news on the wireless: unrest in the Paris suburbs, the last British troops leaving Kuwait, another stand-off between Soviet and American tanks at Checkpoint Charlie. The traffic inched forward.
A friend from my school days had invited me to stay for the weekend.
A few like-minded chaps, Bill said, all of them single or, like me, recently divorced.
All very informal, he’d said. Country walks and a pub lunch, a few hands of cards.
A round of golf on Sunday morning. I hadn’t seen Bill for years, but the thought of a change of scene was welcome and I’d accepted.
Now, what with the traffic, I was in two minds about whether I’d done the right thing.
‘Traffic’s always bad Fridays,’ Bill said. ‘All the weekenders choking up the road.’
‘Adding to their number,’ I’d said, and we’d both laughed in that slightly awkward way of friends who had once known each other well.
‘That’s it,’ he said. ‘Friday it is. I’ll send directions. We’re hard to find the first time.’
‘Can I bring anything?’
‘Just yourself,’ he’d replied. ‘Just yourself.’
I tell you this, and in such detail, so you understand there was nothing out of the ordinary.
It was an unexceptional Friday afternoon, nothing to mark it out.
I was regretting accepting Bill’s invitation, in the way of those things, but I wasn’t anxious beyond what you’d expect from a man intending to spend the weekend with strangers.
I was in good spirits, good health and I’d been sleeping better over the past few weeks.
Once I was out of London, I had a clear run of it and the first hour or so passed uneventfully.
Traffic started to thin out. One by one, the commuter husbands hurrying home to their wives.
The grey afternoon sky turned pink at dusk, then an inky blue.
On road signs, the names of unfamiliar villages, places I’d never heard of and would never visit.
As I drove on and on, I thought of all the people I’d never meet, settling down for their supper.
A closed up garage on the corner and rows of shops, street after anonymous street of modern new houses on the outskirts of towns.
I made good time. Even so, it already was past nine o’clock by the time I turned off the main road and started to make my way cross country.
Bill had promised a scratch meal, since we were all arriving at different times, but I was worried about pitching up after everyone else.
I decided I’d stop, if I could, to let him know I was running late.
I didn’t have long to wait. In a village called South Harting, I found a telephone box. The red paint was chipped and, inside, an acrid smell of damp and ash, but the phone itself was working. I dialled the number, waited for the pips and Bill’s voice, pushed the coin into the slot.
‘My wife won’t mind,’ Bill said when I explained I was still a good half hour away. ‘She’ll put something by for you.’
‘If you’re sure.’
‘You don’t mind, do you?’ he called out.
I imagined him cupping the receiver with his hand and his wife smiling and shaking her head. In the background, I could hear the raised voices of men who’ve had one over the eight.
‘She doesn’t mind,’ Bill said again. ‘We’ll see you when we see you.’
I came out of the phone box and lit a cigarette.
I lingered a while to shrug the stale smell off my clothes, tempted by the convivial lights in the White Hart, but I knew I should press on.
I allowed myself to finish the cigarette though and stretched my legs.
Turning my collar to the cold and damp, I wrapped my scarf a little tighter around my neck, then walked up the High Street towards the church of St Mary and St Gabriel, then back on the opposite side of the road.
The air was filled with the scent of coal fires and wood, wet earth and ploughed fields.
Squares of light from kitchen windows, an untenanted schoolhouse, it seemed a quintessentially English village.
As I unlocked the car, a customer came out of the Ship Inn, on the corner. I gave him good evening and raised my hat. He looked at me through ale-drenched eyes, bleary with surprise or suspicion, before stumbling away into the night.
‘Please yourself,’ I muttered, a little put out.
I took off my scarf, then checked Bill’s handwritten map again to be sure I had the directions clear in my mind: through South Harting on the Uppark Road, turn sharp left to follow the road up through the woods for a couple of miles.
At the top of Harting Down, when the trees started to thin out, look out for a sign to Bill’s village.
I drove past a sleeping row of workmen’s cottages, aware of the dense woodland beyond the outskirts of Harting.
Left and left again, my foot lifted from the accelerator on the bends.
Fallen leaves, a patchwork of colours of burgundy and copper and gold, lit suddenly by the car’s headlamps.
Right and left again, then I was plunged into the utter blackness of the countryside.
Abrupt, silent. I fixed my eyes ahead, trying not to notice how the long tall trunks of the high trees loomed over the road or the way the ground fell violently away to the left.
The engine was straining as I changed down a gear, then down again.
I’m an ordinary man – no imagination, my ex-wife used to say, proudly at first, then later with disappointment – but as I drove on and up into the woods, it seemed to me the darkness took on a life of its own.
It seemed to bend and twist and curl around the car.
The gnarled exposed roots of trees were the knuckles of an old man’s hand and the trunks transformed themselves into a marching army.
The glint of sharp eyes in the undergrowth, a fox or a badger, vibrated with menace and spoke of something beyond any normal night-time creature.
Every branch had a face, a shape, a living purpose.
It was getting colder too. Pockets of low cloud hung in the hollow spaces between the army of pines or floated across the road, as if pushed by some unseen hand.
A light drizzle, cloud turning to mist, mist to fog.
Faces, contours, eyes, fingers finding shape in the wall of white.
Telling myself not to let my wits run away with me, I switched on my fog lamps.
It made little difference. I still could see no more than six inches in front of me and the mist still seemed to be full of creatures.
The hypnotic swish of the windscreen wipers, along with the rattle of the heater and the straining of the engine, was making me feel dizzy.
I swallowed, aware my mouth was dry. Right, then right again, following the turn of the road.
Second gear, down to first in places as the track went winding and twisting this way and that.
Left, then left again. Another tight bend, the endlessness of the surrounding woodland, another halfformed face staring hollow out of the mist, except this time it was real.
I slammed on the brakes.
‘No!’
Did I shout out a warning or only in my head?
I don’t know, only that this time there really was a girl, not an apparition in the mist. Flesh and blood standing in the middle of the road and I was going to hit her.
I stamped on the brake again, hands clenched, shoulders braced.
The back wheels spun. Slipping, skidding, sliding towards the girl.
‘Get out of the way!’
A thud of something beneath the car and I was thrown forward, hard against the steering wheel. After noise, silence. After movement, stillness. It took me a moment to realise the Morris Minor had come to a halt and I was still on the road, safe. Apart from a sharp pain in my ribs, I was all right.
What about the girl? Had I hit her?
I fumbled with the catch, my shaking fingers failing to get purchase, but in the end managed to fling open the door and stumble out into the night. I could barely see my hand in front of my face. But I called out, praying for an answer from another human voice.
‘Where are you? Are you all right?’
The fog muffled everything, footsteps, twigs underfoot.
I traced my way round the car, hand sliding across the metal so as not to lose my footing and go tumbling down, round to where I thought the girl had been standing.
I crouched down to look under the car, dreading what I might see beneath the chassis, but there was nothing except a heavy branch caught in the front number plate.
My relief was short-lived. The ground fell steeply away, I could see that now. Had she tried to get out of the way and fallen down the wooded hillside? I called out again.
‘Are you hurt?’
Then, suddenly, I saw her. Standing, silent, in a gap between the trees. Hardly visible in the mist, hardly there at all.
‘What in God’s name are you playing at?’ Fear turned swiftly to anger now I could see she was safe. ‘Out here alone, at this time of night, you could have been killed.’